KONG Anchor Connector - lateral breaking load issues?

[vyv_cox]

There is very little risk of galvanic activity in an anchor rode and anchor. I anchor more than most users and after four years the zinc has almost all gone from my three links of 10 mm chain between a Kong and a stainless steel shackle. The steel beneath is just beginning to rust a little, I will change it out next season. The 8 mm chain still has plenty of zinc on it, although clearly a little less on the final three or four links.

My shackle test results are on the website. In general I found the stainless steel shackles to be stronger than equivalent galvanised ones, all bought at chandleries and not the specialised ones Jonathan is referring to. Having commented earlier about the considerable difficulty experienced in undoing my Loctited shackle a couple of weeks ago I would have no qualms about applying a good galvanised shackle using thread sealant, then cutting off the head of the pin. It would make removal somewhat more difficult but this may not be a problem, dependent upon how the gear is stored for winter. Info on the Loctite used also on the website.

 

[Neeves]

I've not tested unbranded gal bow shackles, but have seen those that have failed - so as Vyv implies I simply would not trust them except maybe to secure the local pet dog. Rated shackles, with WLL, size etc cast into the steel - they are hardly expensive.

Hardly helpful - but a stainless bow shackle bought from a little corner outlet (I'd not call it a shop) in the back streets of Hong Kong was better than the same sized shackle and sold with a min break load bought from a reputable supplier.

Jonathan

 

[Babylon]

Well I've learnt a good amount, thanks.

The setup I'll be going for will be:
* a D-shackle, probably a Petersen high tensile certified s/s with countersunk pin, or a quality normal quality one with the head cut most (not all) of the way down and slotted for a screwdriver
* two or three links of my own certified 8mm chain
* KONG

Note that my current KONG connector doesn't swivel. I didn't realise when I purchased it that a swivel connecter is preferred so that the chain remains untwisted before mounting the gypsy. In due course I'll replace it with a swivelling version.

Jon

 

[Neeves]

Jon,

I knew nothing about Petersen, I do now (I've just checked the website) well sourced and well searched - another reputable source (where have they been hiding ). I like the 6:1 safety factor - so its 'better' than your (and my) chain and the 2 x WLL Proof Testing is also good (and is similar to other reputable suppliers). It has a sensible increased WLL over G3 8mm the chain (and as good as G4 x 8mm). A slotted 'rated' gal shackle (with head cut off) will work equally well

I think your arrangement will be fine - but as with all such assemblies check it regularly and discard, anything, if there are any signs of distortion.

The chain links at the end of the assembly and you will have one at the connector, one at the other end of the connector and one attached to the shackle will all corrode preferentially - it appears to happen to all end links, so be prepared to chop them off in a few years time. Its normal and not a big issue.


Thanks for highlighting Petersen!

Best wishes

Jonathan

 

[vyv_cox]

It probably won't affect the pin strength, the head is too far away, but with heat treated components it is better not to grind them, as the tempering will be destroyed. Use a hacksaw, which might be hard work.