Water Pump Leak

scottie said:

I would redirect you to my latest post

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I still despair.

So what, because someone might only follow half the advice and do it wrong, the advice is dangerous ?

That's beyond ludicrous!!

PaulRainbow said:

I still despair.

So what, because someone might only follow half the advice and do it wrong, the advice is dangerous ?

That's beyond ludicrous!!

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Do you require blood
.

Thistle said:

I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find, including the one you refer to, and failing to find instructions for changing the seal. Maybe I've missed a page: if so I'd be grateful if you could point me towards it. Many thanks.

In the meantime, a very helpful email from Beta Marine tells me "They should be easy to change out. There is a circlip that holds it in behind the Impeller. Once removed, should be able to pop it out with a screwdriver."

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Agree that the manual does not explain the detail of how. YouTube helps with the detail - I watched a guy doing this on a canal boat. I needed a bent tip item to push on the seal from behind - using a screw driver to gently lever against the pump housing. I made several tools as it was tight and I needed to add a mm or two with each lever action. The clearance is tight behind the pump. You may be able to prise it from the front but beware damaging the housing or shaft. Good access helps.

The water seal may leak because the shaft is worn/corroded. If so, just replacing the seal is not a long term solution, also the shaft might have to be replaced.
To withdraw the shaft for inspection, the pump has to come off the engine block, see post #7.

Thistle said:

I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find, including the one you refer to, and failing to find instructions for changing the seal. Maybe I've missed a page: if so I'd be grateful if you could point me towards it. Many thanks.

In the meantime, a very helpful email from Beta Marine tells me "They should be easy to change out. There is a circlip that holds it in behind the Impeller. Once removed, should be able to pop it out with a screwdriver."

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"I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find"
Maybe in your original post you should have told us what research you had done before posting a thread! (googled, downloaded the manual etc)

coopec said:

"I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find"
Maybe in your original post you should have told us what research you had done before posting a thread! (googled, downloaded the manual etc)

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Still waiting for you to post the page number for changing the water pump seals, in the manual you posted.

Or for you to share your expertise in changing raw water pump seals.

PaulRainbow said:

Still waiting for you to post the page number for changing the water pump seals, in the manual you posted.

Or for you to share your expertise in changing raw water pump seals.

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Paul

I haven't downloaded the manual and don't intend to so I can't help. (Obviously you have downloaded it so you must have plenty of time on your hands!)

As far as servicing a raw water pump I have serviced a Jabsco but not a not a Beta 10. (But I'm damned sure I could if I had to)

Why be so combative in your comments to myself and others? What are you trying to prove? (It can't be doing your health any good at all)

Thistle said:

I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find, including the one you refer to, and failing to find instructions for changing the seal. Maybe I've missed a page: if so I'd be grateful if you could point me towards it. Many thanks.

In the meantime, a very helpful email from Beta Marine tells me "They should be easy to change out. There is a circlip that holds it in behind the Impeller. Once removed, should be able to pop it out with a screwdriver."

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I hope you know how to put a spare wheel on in the event of a puncture!

Sorry to break in on a private battle but is a Speedi Sleeve a possibility for a grooved shaft?

coopec said:

"I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find"
Maybe in your original post you should have told us what research you had done before posting a thread! (googled, downloaded the manual etc)

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That'll be in the same way as you might have taken the time to have a look at the publication you linked to in order to check that it had the information required?

davidej said:

Sorry to break in on a private battle but is a Speedi Sleeve a possibility for a grooved shaft?

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Yes. Useful suggestion, thanks.

Thistle said:

Yes. Useful suggestion, thanks.

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In some cases it is possible to put a spacer behind the seal in its housing to move the new lip to a slightly different position on the shaft.

davidej said:

Sorry to break in on a private battle but is a Speedi Sleeve a possibility for a grooved shaft?

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Not really worth it on a pump shaft as replacement is not expensive - but common on saildrive shafts because they are very expensive and sleeves work well.

coopec said:

"I asked the original questions after reading all the manuals I could find"
Maybe in your original post you should have told us what research you had done before posting a thread! (googled, downloaded the manual etc)

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I find the ‘Google it’ input insulting to our intelligence and bit corrosive to the content of the forum.

I appreciate there’s a block function, but then I wouldn’t get to hear genuine input about poster’s boats/actual experiences.

Maybe it’s a generational thing, but I grew up with Google (and PDF manuals etc.). Being constantly referred to generic search results therefore feels a bit analogous to people trying to have an intelligent discussion on - say - a climatology forum and someone constantly replying “have you looked out the window?” (woo, sunny!). It sort of misses the point entirely.

Thistle said:

That'll be in the same way as you might have taken the time to have a look at the publication you linked to in order to check that it had the information required?

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I'm not interested in doing research for you.
You asked for help and I pointed you in the direction that I thought could help.

No one asked you to do research.

You linked to a manual that doesn't cover the job of changing the seal, totally useless.

Hi Newbie here. I have a Beta 10 with sea water cooling in my Hunter Horizon 27

I launched yesterday, went for a sail and then found no cooling water. By process of elimination I know there is no blockage from intake to exhaust and there are no leaks or apparent air locks. I tried two different impellers with no luck. Afterwards I wondered if the shaft has sheared and isn't turning the impeller. Need to go back and check that with impeller housing off.

Question - can anyone post a youtube / other platform video on stripping down and rebuilding the pump? Or is there a Haynes Manual' type instruction sheet for this. There is nothing in the operators manual and all I can find on the Beta website is the parts list and diagram but no diagram showing the build of the pump.

Is water filter above waterline? If so, check for air leaks from lid. Is there water in the filter? If not, try shutting seacock and filling it, then starting the engine (lid off) to see if the water is being dragged in by the pump.

Pye_End said:

Is water filter above waterline? If so, check for air leaks from lid. Is there water in the filter? If not, try shutting seacock and filling it, then starting the engine (lid off) to see if the water is being dragged in by the pump.

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Its a few inches above the WL.

I will try that in my list .

Thanks

If the pump won't prime after a (typically) brisk sail and you don't have a blockage then you either have an airleak (strainer lid, jubilee clips, raw water pump) or the pump is worn and has lost some of its suck. If you fill the pipework manually by topping up the strainer it will probably work (I'm assuming you hadn't drained the pump when on the hard which is why it was working before) but when sailing quickly the venturi effect can pull air into the system and if the pump is worn and/or you have an airleak it will no longer prime. Often this is because the inside of the cover plate has worn in which case you may be able to simply reverse it provided its flat and not stamped with the part number etc. Alternatively you can buy one as part of a refurb kit. A worn seal and/or shaft in the pump can also allow air in or the body of the pump can wear. The former are easy to repair and the latter probably means a new pump. Other reasons for a raw water pump not working include a blocked heat exchanger / exhaust elbow or a failed impeller where the rubber has separated from the central boss but this sounds unlikely in your case.

I hope that helps. I did have a quick look for a YouTube video but you may have better luck if you search the manufacturer. If the cover plate has 3 screws I think its a Jabsco. If it has 6 it should be a Johnson and if you can identify the relevant rebuild kit it's not complicated even without a video.