tomaz_slo
Member
Hi, not yet. This days I am in Guatemala. I’ll tell you about it when I’ll receive the strake.
Antares 760 thread
- Thread starter Jamie Dundee
- Start date
Pleinmont
Active member
I was clearing out the 760 lazarette the other day and I found these two spare parts in the corner.
Never seen them before and I don't know what they are for - I have two guesses prob both of which are wrong but would be good to know if they are essential bits of something useful!
The metal bit might be related to the emergency steering tiller sections clipped behind the rudder stock?
The plastic bit may be for the through hull transducer?
Or not
hopefully one of you might know.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Never seen them before and I don't know what they are for - I have two guesses prob both of which are wrong but would be good to know if they are essential bits of something useful!
The metal bit might be related to the emergency steering tiller sections clipped behind the rudder stock?
The plastic bit may be for the through hull transducer?
Or not
hopefully one of you might know.Any ideas?
Thanks
Plum
Well-known member
The black plastic thing with the O-rings is a plug to insert after you withdraw a speed log transducer. The curved metal tool is for fitting/removing the Teleflex steering hub as in this pictureI was clearing out the 760 lazarette the other day and I found these two spare parts in the corner.
Never seen them before and I don't know what they are for - I have two guesses prob both of which are wrong but would be good to know if they are essential bits of something useful!
The metal bit might be related to the emergency steering tiller sections clipped behind the rudder stock?
The plastic bit may be for the through hull transducer?
Or not
Any ideas?
Thanks
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Pleinmont
Active member
Ha, nice one Plum... I was hoping someone would know.
Much appreciated - I'll leave them onboard and not bin them.
I was in the right ballpark with the plastic plunger but would never have guessed the Teleflex tool in a million years!
Much appreciated - I'll leave them onboard and not bin them.
I was in the right ballpark with the plastic plunger but would never have guessed the Teleflex tool in a million years!
Plum
Well-known member
The plug may also be for a depth sounder transducer. This is an Airmar one
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Pleinmont
Active member
Thanks Plum!
Pleinmont
Active member
Replaced my exhaust elbow recently...
This was the state of it after about 750hrs (not sure if it was ever replaced since new 2005 - I've had the boat since 2017 and 350hrs)...
Wasn't totally blocked but not great so I'm happy it's been changed.
Temp is now a steady 80-82deg C down from mid-high 80s underway which is good.
Still produces steam out the back but at least it's just the mixing of water and exhaust gas, it's nothing to worry about.
A friend fitted a £350 stainless one, I opted for the basic VP copy for £180 - will see what it looks like in a few years.
This was the state of it after about 750hrs (not sure if it was ever replaced since new 2005 - I've had the boat since 2017 and 350hrs)...
Wasn't totally blocked but not great so I'm happy it's been changed.
Temp is now a steady 80-82deg C down from mid-high 80s underway which is good.
Still produces steam out the back but at least it's just the mixing of water and exhaust gas, it's nothing to worry about.
A friend fitted a £350 stainless one, I opted for the basic VP copy for £180 - will see what it looks like in a few years.
Razy
New member
Hi Tomaz,
Most of your other questions were answered, but I can add something to the water tank monitoring: I have installed the capacitor type foil sensors on both the fresh and black water tanks and connected them to my Raymarine display. It works really well and they are very easy to install. This is where I got them from: iSeries Tank Monitor | RV Monitor | Boat Monitor
You can get their display too if you don't have enough inputs left on your existing system, one of my friends has it and they work fine. The foil sensors stick to the outside of the tanks so there is no drilling involved, but they only work on plastic tanks.
I hope this helps.
Raz
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tomaz_slo
Member
Thank you Razy for your help.
Pleinmont
Active member
This system looks great.
I noticed you use a Raymarine display not the iSeries display. Does it work over NMEA2000?
Also what was that Raymarine display originally? Looks like an Autopilot controller but assume it's a small MFD....
Pleinmont
Active member
Overdue job done recently.... Replaced the buttons on the windlass as the rubber domes were cracking.
White one was easy - lots of spare wire inside to join with - filled the heat shrink connector crimps with grease first before heating them up. Staggered them to push back into the hole, easy peasy.
Black one was much harder... There was virtually no spare wire left after cutting the old button off (even going to where they were attached inside the button!) and had to drill out the opening wide enough to be able to push 2 connectors back in.
Standard set of buttons off Ebay for £20 - look identical to the old ones.
Took a couple hours longer than expected but all works fine again.
White one was easy - lots of spare wire inside to join with - filled the heat shrink connector crimps with grease first before heating them up. Staggered them to push back into the hole, easy peasy.
Black one was much harder... There was virtually no spare wire left after cutting the old button off (even going to where they were attached inside the button!) and had to drill out the opening wide enough to be able to push 2 connectors back in.
Standard set of buttons off Ebay for £20 - look identical to the old ones.
Took a couple hours longer than expected but all works fine again.
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Razy
New member
Sorry about the late reply, I somehow missed your post. When I bought the 760 it already had two large iSeries displays and this small MFD, all of them connected via NMEA2000. The large ones are very useful, I can display the radar on one and the chart on the other.
The small one can show any field available on the NMEA network and it was setup just for depth initially. You can define multiple screen layouts (with up to 6 items on each screen) and use the arrows to scroll through them. I usually have the speed, depth, water temperature, fuel level and time when I am on the way.
The Autopilot is a separate unit (Coursermaster CM85i) with its own display and I have connected it to the NMEA network so it can follow a set of waypoints automatically.
Pleinmont
Active member
Thanks for the info Razy. Always nice to have good information displayed accurately. My analogue fuel tank meter seems to work consistently but would be good to have a second opinion on another device!
Razy
New member
When I installed the digital tank display I used the output from the analog fuel sender and I kept the original analog display too. Once calibrated the digital display is very accurate (down to 2-3 Liters) so the analog sender must be quite good.
To get the analog signals into the NMEA network I got the YDTA-01 interfaces (Tank Adapter YDTA-01: Connect resistive and voltage type fluid level sensors to NMEA 2000). You need one for each input so there is a bit of wiring to do, but they work very well.
Pleinmont
Active member
Also, got a question re outboard brackets.
I'm trying to free up space in the lazarette and looking at putting a bracket on the transom for a Honda 2.3hp - 13kgs
Looks like two options.
1 - Fit a short section of SS railing on the top of the transom and use a clamp-on type like you see on sailing boats (but that would have to take the weight of the outboard as it would be suspended - or screw on a block for it to sit on). Might need access hatch cut into GRP to bolt on the SS rail as load bearing. Not sure if there is clearance for the motor to hang vertically as the gunwhale is quite wide.
2 - Fit a bracket on the back of the transom (screwed or bolted into the GRP) and have the tip of the outboard fin rest on a small pad on the swim platform to take the weight (presume needs an access hatch cut into the cockpit side of the transom). They have 4 screw holes so wonder if need a ply backer inside or not...
Anyone done one recently or have one on their 760?
If the bracket screwed into GRP doesn't need to be vertically load bearing (just supportive) would you still need an access hatch for bolts? Bit ugly if not essential.
1 - On railing
2 - Bracket
I'm trying to free up space in the lazarette and looking at putting a bracket on the transom for a Honda 2.3hp - 13kgs
Looks like two options.
1 - Fit a short section of SS railing on the top of the transom and use a clamp-on type like you see on sailing boats (but that would have to take the weight of the outboard as it would be suspended - or screw on a block for it to sit on). Might need access hatch cut into GRP to bolt on the SS rail as load bearing. Not sure if there is clearance for the motor to hang vertically as the gunwhale is quite wide.
2 - Fit a bracket on the back of the transom (screwed or bolted into the GRP) and have the tip of the outboard fin rest on a small pad on the swim platform to take the weight (presume needs an access hatch cut into the cockpit side of the transom). They have 4 screw holes so wonder if need a ply backer inside or not...
Anyone done one recently or have one on their 760?
If the bracket screwed into GRP doesn't need to be vertically load bearing (just supportive) would you still need an access hatch for bolts? Bit ugly if not essential.
1 - On railing
2 - Bracket
Plum
Well-known member
I have an oak mounting pad fitted to my stern hand rail whick I used for my 14kg outboard for several years although most of the time when on home pontoon it lived in the locker then moved it to rail whenever on board. No picture but will take one in a week. With the outboard mounted close to where the rail goes through 90 degrees to run along the port quarter the load on the rail base mounting self tapping screws is mostly downwards.
Pleinmont
Active member
Many thanks Plum, yes a couple of pictures would be fantastic next time you are down on the boat.
Sounds good.
If strong enough, self tappers fixing the rail to the gunwhale would be ideal as that would save me cutting a hole for an access hatch and spoiling the view inside the cockpit.
Plum
Well-known member
Pleinmont
Active member
Hi Plum
Thanks for the pics, looks a good solution with the rails fitted.
Quick question - does that pad allow for the outboard to hang securely unsupported on the inside or outside (or both)?
Also, what's that other outer bracket for - the one with the string (bottom right - last pic)?
Cheers
Dan
Thanks for the pics, looks a good solution with the rails fitted.
Quick question - does that pad allow for the outboard to hang securely unsupported on the inside or outside (or both)?
Also, what's that other outer bracket for - the one with the string (bottom right - last pic)?
Cheers
Dan
Plum
Well-known member
The outboard had no other support, just clamped to the pad on the outside of the rail. The other bracket is for the horseshoe lifebelt with the bit of elastic to hold it on
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