Best location for gas detector

[barryhall]

Thanks to Jon I now have a gas detector from Lidl, question now is best place to fit it. Either adjacent (below) to cooker which is only gas appliance or in bilges at lowest point. First is favourite as this is most likely source of leak (hose or conn.s or cooker) and I would rather not wait until gas seeps down to bilges. Pipe from gas locker is one piece until it joins hose via valve by cooker. Any other ideas gratefully received.
Barry

 

[nickcred]

Hi Barry

I also am now a proud gas detector owner /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif and two new fire extonguishers as well.

I am prett sure when I glanced though the instruction leaflet that it says not to fit close to the cooker.

Nick

 

[nickcred]

It should also tell me to check my spelling before I post

 

[fluffc]

The most logical place is in the bilge. But water is a problem, and the unit is likely to die as a result.

The warning about not placing close to the cooker is because of spurious alarms. This is more of a concern on a shorebased installation, where a certain amount of gas leakage from an appliance is allowable. On a boat installation, NO gas leakage is allowed, so you could place the sensor fairly close to the cooker.

 

[barryhall]

I had not considered the spurious alarm issue, I thought it was more to do with the temperature if it was really close to the oven. Only reservation I had with by cooker was if pipe failed as it would then fill bilges before reaching detector - but chances of pipe failing if no joints must be pretty small?
Barry

 

[Strathglass]

It's always going to be a compromise. Especially as there is no remote sensor.

This is what I have just done

I have a continuous copper pipe from inside the gas locker to just behind the cooker.

I still don't know whether I will need to protect the sensor from feet.

Still got a fair bit of finishing to do. The newer bits of wood will darken wth time.

Iain

 

[barryhall]

Thanks for that - maybe you could use a wooden door/draw pull (like a small grab handle) if you find it necessary to protect it. As you say a compromise but it will protect from the most likely source of a leak.
Barry

 

[ChasB]

Why didn't you buy two? I got three.

As mentioned in a previous thread, this unit consumes a not un-negligible bit of power. it might not run your battery right down, but you might (I would!) have a problem starting. So why leave it on when you're away? Just turn your gas supply off when you leave the boat for a long time and switch the alarm off - which means buying a suitable switch.

Why would you leave it on when you're away anyway? If someone heard it and got (or broke) in all they'd do is turn the gas off...

Any adventurous souls here thought about opening this unit up and making the sensor remote?

 

[barryhall]

It did cross my mind to look at converting it into a remote sensor but as I understand it a hot wire device looks at changes in resistance of sensor and extending the wire would upset calibration - but if you have 3 you could always try it with one - even if you killed it you would still be in profit as opposed to buying one from Compass!
Barry

 

[ChasB]

You got my logic exactly!

I figure that if you use a thick low resistance wire for the extension it should be ok. And if (like me) you have two, you can test side by side with an un-moded one to check it's still retained sufficient sensitivity.

Anyway, good to leave one unopened to avoid any insurance problems.

(I'll also do a petrol vapor test while I'm at it - but all this is a couple of weeks away.)

 

[barryhall]

I'll scoot to Lidl and see if they've got any more left!
Please let me know how you get on - no sense in screwing two up /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Barry

 

[nickcred]

They still had a stack of them in our local lidl in Basingstoke. If you have no luck PM me and I will happily pick one up and post it off to you.

Nick

 

[Strathglass]

Chas,

The problem is not when the boat is empty. Then, as you say, it could and would be switched off.

The problem lies on longer passages. Just another drain on the battery that has to be factored in.

Already have Weather fax and Navtex on all the time, and whatever instruments/ lights are in use at any one time while sailing Such as Log, Gps, VHF, SSB, Radar and the various repeaters.
Or even the greedy Eberspacier.

All fine for a short time or when the engine is running.

I have 4 batteries on board. Engine 80-Ah, 2 x Domestic- 100Ah and a 7 Ah sealed backup the for GPS/VHF.
A 90 Ah alternator and Sterling Regulator controller. Also some small solar panels.
It would be more critical if I had only one battery.

The trouble is if it is switched off, Someone at some time may forget to switch it back on.

Cheers

Iain

 

[barryhall]

Nick,
Many thanks for the offer but I told a friend about them and then asked him to pick another one up when he was getting his /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Barry

 

[gandy]

Ours is switched off while we're away. I worry that in the event of a gas leak we'll blow up the boat (and ourselves) by switching on the electric before there's a chance to hear the gas detector. I don't have an answer for this, because our detector will definitely run the battery down too much if left switched on.

Anyone have a solution?

 

[barryhall]

I have just measured the current at just under 70Ma and it goes up to 120 when the alarm goes off. This would mean less than 12 amp hours in a week if I have got my sums right.
Otherwise Mk 1 sniffer before turning on electrics!
Barry

 

[Strathglass]

Yes Barry

Either you have got your sum's right'or fools seldom differ

Cheers

Iain