Shackles

[Neeves]

Yoke, the Taiwanese manufacturer of lifting components have recently opened an office in the UK and have a chain of distributors across the country. They are claiming to hold an extensive range of products in stock.

Within the range they manufacture galvanised bow (or anchor) shackles to a similar specification to Crosby's (and Peerless, Campbell both of the US).

These shackles are defined variously but are all G80 shackles.

You can buy Green Pin, Van Beest, shackles to the same specification but not as small as a 3/8th" shackle.

Having a new entrant to the market might make it easier for those who need a replacement shackle to possibly have one geographically close to where you and your yacht lie. I have no idea if they are stocking this specific quality.

These are the specification of the specific range, they make others of a lesser quality.

YOKE振鋒企業

The contact point is


salesuk@mail.yoke.net

Andy Charlesworth: +44 (0) 7368 557917

I have tested their 3/8th" shackles and other components and they meet specification.




Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

I was mulling over the problem that develops when your shackle is too wide and rams the bow roller cheeks when you retreive the anchor. This problem is exacerbated as bow rollers appear to have become thinner and thinner - or less and less wide.

I have not tried it, yet, but wonder if an option is:

YOKE振鋒企業

Grind off half of the hexagonal head, allowing the head to lie inside the 'profile' of the 'bow'

Drill a new hole through the shackle pin at 90 deg to the existing hole but have the new hole flush with the half nut. Then shorten the shank length, maybe rounding what's left of the pin. You can then still mouse the shackle pin but it should run more smoothly through the bow roller. The new hole will allow mousing and hold the supplied half nut securely. For belt and braces use some Loctite on the supplied half nut.

I cannot think the strength of the shackle has been compromised.

I have not modified a Yoke shackle, I only have 3 left and I bought them direct from Taiwan before their ideas of a UK operation were even a dream. I made a modification for another shackle by simply cutting off the protruding lug, but leaving a shoulder on the shackle pin, otherwise the shackle pin can be pulled through the eye. Slot the end of the pin for a big flat screwdriver Then simply using, red, Loctite to secure the pin.

Shackles as recommended, like these 3/8th" shackles, are grossly over strength, failure strengths will be well in excess of 10t. Do not forget that a shackle locked up at 90 degrees to the 'correct' loading direction will lose half its strength - I've tested it - the 50% loss is correct.

Good shackles like these Yoke shackles are effectively bullet proof and cost peanuts - and offer you full security. You can also source G80 shackles from Crosby, Peerless and Campbell - but if the new Yoke distribution is good (send them an email and ask, and report back on the forum ) - maybe Yoke will be easier to source.

I have no financial interest in Yoke - simply want people to use the correct shackles and convenience in sourcing should make the use of incorrect shackles inexcusable.

And if you buy - buy a spare. They are easy to lose overboard, guess how I know.

Jonathan

 

[billyfish]

Why don't they list the overall width, I struggle to get mine past the cheeks and have been using ones with countersunk allen key head

 

[Neeves]

Why don't they list the overall width, I struggle to get mine past the cheeks and have been using ones with countersunk allen key head

Don't be reticent.

What do you use, is it load rated (and if so what load?)

I know that Chaineries ....... spelling? and I think sold by Jimmy Green has a recessed Alan keyed clevis pin - but I thought it a 'D' shackle.

I, and others with similar motivations, don't make money from YBW - we just want to publicise reliable kit.

Most bow shackles of the design in my links are to universal sizes. A Crosby 3/8th" shackle is the same (or similar) size to one from Yoke, Campbell or Peerless and they have similar specifications.

If you want a different size and/or design connector with a decent specification look at hammer lock or omega links.




Most companies making for the lifting industry supply a range of connectors, Yoke, Crosby, Peerless, Van Beest with their Excel range - I think all offer hammerlocks and Omega links. Omega links are not common on the anchor rode but a number of members here use or have used hammer locks. We used Omega links with our 'downsized' HT chain as enlarged links (the Omega is G80 or G100) and accepts for size a G80 shackle and similarly used hammer locks for our anchor(s) and Boomerang (in the picture).

There are a number of options.

Jonathan

 

[rogerthebodger]

Have you considered replacing the threaded pin with a button head bolt or socket head countersunk bolt of the appropriate thread size.

 

[Neeves]

Have you considered replacing the threaded pin with a button head bolt or socket head countersunk bolt of the appropriate thread size.

It would be difficult to source a threaded pin of the appropriate tensile strength. Or to look another way - easier to modify a pin that matches the shackle.

Also I'd suggest the dimensions are fairly critical. On testing the high tensile clevis pins invariably broke at the thread (where the thread does not fully enter the eye). Unless the thread is buried in the eye and extends outside the eye but on the inside of the shackle then you are introducing a weak(er) point. This failure mode seems logical - the thread reduces the diameter of the pin - it is the weak point. As most rated shackles meet the specification, in terms of strength, I assume the clevis pin's tensile strength is chosen to accomodate this design feature.

Shackles do fail though usually because the shackle was not an alloy Grade 80. I've never heard of a Grade 80 shackle failing (in an anchor rode) - which suggests that a grade 80 shackle, matching the chain for size is safely over specified.

I have tested CMP's Black pin Titan shackles and don't recommend their use - even though they are probably available at every chandler selling CMP and/or Titan or Rocna anchors. There are plenty of good shackles, Yoke, Crosby, Peerless and Campbell available if you are discerning. There are also some good Chinese (mainland) shackles, G80, but I've never heard of them being available outside China.

Jonathan

 

[rogerthebodger]

Well the bolt that is selected must be of the same or greater strength as the existing shackle pin

The pin is mainly in bending and not pure tension.

The tread is always the week point in any fastening due to the less effective in carrying the forces applied

 

[Neeves]

The pin is mainly in bending and not pure tension.

The tread is always the week point in any fastening due to the less effective in carrying the forces applied

Yes,

They shear cleanly 'just' outside the threaded eye where the remnants of the thread can commonly be seen.

Its a good idea to tighten the pin as much as possible to bury as much of the thread as possible.

Jonathan

 

[Boathook]

Don't be reticent.

What do you use, is it load rated (and if so what load?)

I know that Chaineries ....... spelling? and I think sold by Jimmy Green has a recessed Alan keyed clevis pin - but I thought it a 'D' shackle.

I, and others with similar motivations, don't make money from YBW - we just want to publicise reliable kit.

Most bow shackles of the design in my links are to universal sizes. A Crosby 3/8th" shackle is the same (or similar) size to one from Yoke, Campbell or Peerless and they have similar specifications.

If you want a different size and/or design connector with a decent specification look at hammer lock or omega links.
View attachment 170602

View attachment 170603

Most companies making for the lifting industry supply a range of connectors, Yoke, Crosby, Peerless, Van Beest with their Excel range - I think all offer hammerlocks and Omega links. Omega links are not common on the anchor rode but a number of members here use or have used hammer locks. We used Omega links with our 'downsized' HT chain as enlarged links (the Omega is G80 or G100) and accepts for size a G80 shackle and similarly used hammer locks for our anchor(s) and Boomerang (in the picture).

There are a number of options.

Jonathan

Is this what you mean Jonathan
Force 7 Grade 70 Anchor Chain Shackle Link Connector

 

[Neeves]

Is this what you mean Jonathan
Force 7 Grade 70 Anchor Chain Shackle Link Connector

These are G70 shackles as op[posed to the others I quote which are G80. However I don't think the difference is strength is that critical.. As I mention I have never heard of a appropriately sized G80 shackle failing so I think they are safely over strength and the difference between G70 and G80 is not great.

However the G80 shackles allow the bow to fit through the anchor slot and I'm not sure that is possible with the G7 shackles, you would need to try. If the bow of the G7 does not fit through the slot you will lose articulation and could side load the shackle (and then the shackle will not be much different in strength to the chain, making the shackle the weak link (and given the shackle is cheaper than the chain I'd want to have the chain as the weak link.

I do note the price of the shackle in the link and am sure the G80 shackles are cheaper (but stand to be corrected).

These shackles have been mentioned before in the forum, some members have used them - and I've never read of a negative comment.

Jonathan