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My mate "Robert" who is a builder thinks we should all use Gripfill..........
++1 to that. I do this all the time!. You get a couple of goes at it before you finally throw the tube away
Even before that though make a masking tape hollow sausage at the end of the nozzle. About an inch and a half long. Squeeze the trigger to fill the sausage with sealant. Fold the last half inch over. And put one more piece of masking tape round the lot. Make sure there’s no air inside.
When you go back to the tube you can then grab the inch long sika sausage which will pull the solid sika out of the nozzle.
Only if you’ve left it so long that this fails do you need the brute force tactics.
And what's best for resealing external windows ?
My 2002 windscreeen is leaking a little; taking the whole front windscreen out is, so I am told, not practical / possible. Was thinking of sealing over the hard rubber. Any thoughts ?
Cheers
My mate "Robert" who is a builder thinks we should all use Gripfill..........
The real problems with silicones (apart from them not being very good at long term sealing) is that they make painting and finishing really difficult. I don't know any quality boatyards that even allow silicones onto the premises for fear it will contaminate a surface that's due to be painted or varnished. They stuff we used for glazing was kept locked away.
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I think we're talking different disciplines here. I build fibreglass boats, hardly any wood in them, and certainly none on show, and not a drop of paint or varnish used. You're obviously talking wooden boats, so I can understand the aversion to silicone.
I have found that an opened tube of sika will stay useable for 6 months if kept in a fridge