Perkins 4-108 timing

[DownWest]

Hi all
Just been looking at a 4-108 that is giving off a bit of white smoke. It was replaced a year ago, but with the injection pump off the original engine. Now, the reference marks do not line up by about 5mm retarded? So my question is: Are individual pumps matched and marked to an engine? Or should any any pump that was originally off the same type of engine be fitted to the marks? ( it is not practical to adjust and try it, as the exhaust system is off.)
Thanks
DW

 

[david_bagshaw]

I dont know as to this engine, but generically the timing does retard as gears wear. Normally the start of injection is set using a method called spill timing. google list the method, and this will correct the timing for the wear, which will help a little on the smoke front.

 

[<152587>]

Marks on pump flange and crankcase should be aligned, remove inspection hatch o n injection pump, the "A" scribe should align with the edge of circlip on later engines or the scribed line on the circlip on earlier models when No 1 is at TDC. Check either the crank pulley key is at 12 o' clock or that No4 is on overlap to confirm TDC. The idler wheel is adjustable on these engines to set backlash in timing train.

 

[ianj99]

White smoke from a cold engine and poor starting can indicate low compression.

 

[Spi D]

PM me if you want the workshop manual or engine handbook.

 

[VicS]

I don't know if it will help or not but there is a workshop manual on Bluemoment http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Perkins-4.107_4.108_4.99-WorkshopManual.pdf

 

[Spi D]

I don't know if it will help or not but there is a workshop manual on Bluemoment http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Perkins-4.107_4.108_4.99-WorkshopManual.pdf

Similar to mine - mine is just a 1978 vs. Bluemoments' 1983.
My Engine Handbook is 1973.

 

[DownWest]

Thanks for the prompt replies and offers. I have the manual, just curious as to whether there might be a reason for the installer to have timed it differently and leaving the marks out of line, hence my question about switching pumps. As for wear, it is supposed to be in good nick. Last engine got sea water up the exhaust and seized, which is why I am changing the system for a bigger water lift.
DW

 

[ianj99]

Thanks for the prompt replies and offers. I have the manual, just curious as to whether there might be a reason for the installer to have timed it differently and leaving the marks out of line, hence my question about switching pumps. As for wear, it is supposed to be in good nick. Last engine got sea water up the exhaust and seized, which is why I am changing the system for a bigger water lift.
DW

Retarding the timing will usually make them run more quietly but a bit less efficiently. Mine's advanced a bit and is noisier than a neighbour's but a tad more advance usually helps the efficiency and torque.

 

[<152587>]

What a load of rowlocks, if you have the manual you have the answers without referring to this site.
Just refer to the manual , it gives you all the information.

 

[DownWest]

What a load of rowlocks, if you have the manual you have the answers without referring to this site.
Just refer to the manual , it gives you all the information.

Thanks for your support...

There was nothing in the manual about the possibility of different markings IF THE PUMP HAD BEEN CHANGED. I have only ever had pumps overhauled and refitted, so worth asking here. Especially as it had only been fitted last year by a 'specialist'. 6 to 2 isn't too bad, I suppose )

 

[ianj99]

What a load of rowlocks, if you have the manual you have the answers without referring to this site.
Just refer to the manual , it gives you all the information.

There are 12 possibilities listed under blue/white smoke, so what's the harm in the OP asking his question in case anyone has had a similar experience and can shed some light on his problem?
Manuals are all very well, but forums often provide more relevant help from those with first hand experience of problems and the fixes.